Concrete Block Calculator

Enter your wall dimensions to estimate standard 16×8 blocks, mortar, and rebar.

LENGTH HEIGHT

Runs entirely in your browser — your numbers never leave this page.

How it works

Standard CMU (16×8×8 in) covers 0.89 sq ft of wall face. Mortar runs about one 80-lb bag per 30–40 blocks:

Blocks = (Length × Height) ÷ 0.89 × (1 + Waste)

Frequently asked questions

How many concrete blocks do I need?

Wall face area ÷ 0.89, plus 10%. A 24×4 ft wall is 96 sq ft → ~108 blocks + waste ≈ 119 blocks.

How much mortar per block?

Roughly one 80-lb bag per 30–40 blocks with 3/8-inch joints. A 119-block wall needs ~4 bags. Pre-mixed Type S is the standard choice.

Do I need rebar in a block wall?

For structural, retaining, or tall walls: yes — #4 verticals every 4 ft in concrete-filled cores, tied into the footing. Garden walls under 2 ft can skip it.

How deep should the footing be?

Below the frost line, minimum 12 inches deep × 24 inches wide for an 8-inch wall. The footing carries everything — skimp it and the wall cracks.

What is running bond?

Staggering each course half a block so vertical joints do not align. It is the standard pattern — aligned "stack bond" is weak and often against code.

Can I lay block in cold weather?

Above 40°F and rising is the rule. Mortar will not cure properly near freezing — tent and heat the work area or wait for spring.

How do I cut concrete block?

Masonry saw with a diamond blade (wet is cleaner), or score-and-split with a brick hammer for rough cuts. Always wear a respirator — silica dust.

Should cores be filled?

Fill cores with concrete wherever rebar runs, and on all retaining/structural walls. Unfilled cores are fine for freestanding garden walls.

What is the difference between Type N and Type S mortar?

Type S is stronger and the default for structural and below-grade work. Type N suits above-grade non-structural walls. Do not use Type M (too rigid) for most block work.

How long does a block wall last?

Decades to a century with a proper footing and drainage. The failure points are always the same: moving footings, water pressure, and missing control joints.